“This underground eatery serves up more than mere food
You might have trouble finding the new restaurant U Jednoho pokoje (At the One Room), a.k.a. Chez Julien. There’s no sign out front marking its location or operating hours. Nor, for that matter, is there an advertisement in any newspaper or magazine or on any Web site. You can’t find it in any guidebook or restaurant listings. U Jednoho pokoje is an underground restaurant, and strictly speaking, it’s illegal. You’ll find out about U Jednoho pokoje only if someone tells you about it.
When you do find out about U Jednoho pokoje, you dial the number or send an SMS to make a reservation — drop-ins are not allowed. If you’re accepted, you’ll be given the address and the name to look for on the buzzer.
When you get there, there’s a good chance you’ll be let in by Julien himself, a short young Frenchman in a clean white chef’s coat. He’ll lead you upstairs two flights to the restaurant, hidden on a busy street inside a typical Vinohrady apartment building. In fact, U Jednoho pokoje is an apartment, a high-ceilinged one-bedroom located not too far from namesti Miru. Julien might apologize for the mess, as the only entrance to the dining room is through the tiny kitchen where the meals are prepared. (It is called At the One Room for a reason, after all.) And then you’re seated — by Julien himself, naturally.”